Rome

Rome sits on the Tiber and has spent nearly three thousand years building on top of itself: the Colosseum and the Forum, the Pantheon still roofed by its ancient concrete dome, baroque churches and squares, and the Vatican, a separate state inside the city. Small iron fountains, the nasoni, run with cold drinking water on street corners all day. The historic center is compact enough to cross on foot, and its best corners turn up between the sights rather than at them.