Italy

Italy packs more into one country than seems fair: Roman ruins and Renaissance cities, Alpine lakes and southern coast, and food that changes every hundred kilometres. Part of the pleasure is how little the regions have in common - the pace, the dialect, even the coffee shift as you move. You never run out of it - I have tried. You just find the next corner you meant to see years ago, and start planning the trip back before you have left.

Cinque Terre Itinerary: Stay for the Evenings
Planning

Cinque Terre Itinerary: Stay for the Evenings

A Cinque Terre itinerary for one to four nights: why the evening decides the plan, where to sleep, how to shape each day, and which dates to watch.

Genoa to Cinque Terre: Close, If Your Train Stops There
Transport

Genoa to Cinque Terre: Close, If Your Train Stops There

The Cinque Terre is about an hour from Genoa by train, but most trains skip most villages. Here's the one that stops at yours, from town, ship or airport.

Venice to Cinque Terre: Which Way There, Which Way Back
Transport

Venice to Cinque Terre: Which Way There, Which Way Back

No train runs Venice to the Cinque Terre direct. Your village picks Florence or Milan, and on the way back, the wrong train stops short of Santa Lucia.

Cinque Terre Beaches: Pebbles, Rocks, and a Real Beach
Destination

Cinque Terre Beaches: Pebbles, Rocks, and a Real Beach

Monterosso has the Cinque Terre's one sand beach. Vernazza and Manarola mean harbor rocks inside a rope. Which village suits which swimmer, and when to go.

Cinque Terre or Amalfi Coast? A Full Day Apart
Planning

Cinque Terre or Amalfi Coast? A Full Day Apart

Cinque Terre vs Amalfi Coast: a crowded train line or a slow road. How to pick your problem, and whether both fit in one trip.

Rome to Cinque Terre: Where You Change, and Which Ticket
Transport

Rome to Cinque Terre: Where You Change, and Which Ticket

Ten direct trains a day run Rome to La Spezia, none into the villages. Where to change, the one ticket that covers it, and the last train back to Rome.

La Spezia to Cinque Terre: 8 Minutes by Train, 80 by Boat
Transport

La Spezia to Cinque Terre: 8 Minutes by Train, 80 by Boat

The train reaches all five Cinque Terre villages from La Spezia in 8 to 25 minutes. When the 80-minute boat is worth it, and when the Card beats a ticket.

Milan to Cinque Terre: Direct, but to One Village
Transport

Milan to Cinque Terre: Direct, but to One Village

Seven direct Intercity trains a day run Milan to Monterosso in about 3 hours. Where they don't stop, the last train home, and when a night beats the day.

Hiking the Cinque Terre: Is Any of It Easy?
Destination

Hiking the Cinque Terre: Is Any of It Easy?

Hiking Cinque Terre: the park grades both coastal walks expert. Which one to pick, what the Card costs, and the two pages to check before you go.

Florence to Cinque Terre: Day Trip or a Night?
Transport

Florence to Cinque Terre: Day Trip or a Night?

No train reaches the villages without a change, and weekday directs start near midday. The early trains that make the day work, and when a night beats it.

Dolomites Hut to Hut: Which Trek Fits Your Days?
Destination

Dolomites Hut to Hut: Which Trek Fits Your Days?

Hut-to-hut hiking in the Dolomites: six treks compared by days and fixed cables, from the Alta Via 1 and 2 to four-day loops, and how to book the huts.

Alta Via 1, Dolomites: Booked Months Ahead, Walked in Summer
Destination

Alta Via 1, Dolomites: Booked Months Ahead, Walked in Summer

Twelve stages from Lago di Braies to Belluno, and a booking puzzle before the first step: which Alta Via 1 huts to book, when, and what a night costs.

Skiing in Cortina: Across Town and Back
Destination

Skiing in Cortina: Across Town and Back

Skiing in Cortina d'Ampezzo starts with the side of town you sleep on. Then how Tofana and Faloria connect, the one-way Armentarola day, the pass and runs.

Val Gardena Skiing: Three Villages, One Sellaronda
Destination

Val Gardena Skiing: Three Villages, One Sellaronda

Val Gardena skiing starts with the village: Selva sits on the Sellaronda, Ortisei has La Longia and the Alpe di Siusi. Then pick the pass, runs and rules.

Dolomites in Winter: A Different Trip, Skis or Not
Planning

Dolomites in Winter: A Different Trip, Skis or Not

The Dolomites in winter run on their lifts, early December to early April. Pick the weeks, then the village, and a group where only some ski gets one trip.

Dolomites Map: How the Range Fits Together
Planning

Dolomites Map: How the Range Fits Together

A map of the Dolomites - nine mountain systems in five provinces, bases in three of them - and the four things it does not show that break trips.

Hiking the Dolomites: Pick a Side Before You Pick a Hike
Planning

Hiking the Dolomites: Pick a Side Before You Pick a Hike

The range splits in two, west and east, and the crossing costs a full travel day. How to pick your side, your base, your month and the days you need.

Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm): The 09:00 Gate and Which Lift
Destination

Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm): The 09:00 Gate and Which Lift

Europe's largest alpine meadow, and the road up shuts 09:00 to 17:00. Which lift to take, what it costs, and the walks worth giving a full day.

Val di Funes: Santa Maddalena and the Hike Under the Peaks
Destination

Val di Funes: Santa Maddalena and the Hike Under the Peaks

The Santa Maddalena photo is not taken at the church. Where the Dolomites viewpoint is, what €4 buys at Ranui, and the 2026 barrier that parks you below.

Lago di Sorapis: How to Hike to the Turquoise Lake
Destination

Lago di Sorapis: How to Hike to the Turquoise Lake

The Lago di Sorapis hike takes 5 - 6 hours, not the four you will see quoted: cabled ledges, the wait on them, parking gone by 08:00, and the summer bus.

Seceda: Which Way Up, and When 'Go Early' Fails
Destination

Seceda: Which Way Up, and When 'Go Early' Fails

Two lifts reach the ridge from two villages, and the cheap one costs an hour on foot. Which door, which timeslot, and why 'go early' backfires in summer.

Cortina d'Ampezzo: A Summer Hiking Base in the Dolomites
Destination

Cortina d'Ampezzo: A Summer Hiking Base in the Dolomites

Cortina d'Ampezzo is the Dolomites' best summer hiking base. Pick day-hikes like Cinque Torri and Sorapis by crowd and cost, and time the lifts and storms.

How to Get to the Dolomites From Venice, Milan or Innsbruck
Transport

How to Get to the Dolomites From Venice, Milan or Innsbruck

How to get to the Dolomites: which airport to fly into, whether to rent a car, and the car-free routes that actually work from Venice, Milan or Innsbruck.

Tre Cime di Lavaredo: Beat the Gate, Find the View
Destination

Tre Cime di Lavaredo: Beat the Gate, Find the View

The famous faces aren't at the parking lot. How to win the timed-entry gate, reach Tre Cime di Lavaredo with or without a car, and walk the loop right.

Lago di Braies: Worth It, If You Beat the Road Closure
Destination

Lago di Braies: Worth It, If You Beat the Road Closure

How to visit Lago di Braies in the Dolomites: the summer road closure, parking reservations, buses, boats, and the best time to skip the crowds.

Menaggio, Lake Como: Where to Stay & Why It Works
Destination

Menaggio, Lake Como: Where to Stay & Why It Works

Menaggio is Lake Como's calm, flat, easy-to-park base and ferry hub for Bellagio and Varenna day trips. Where to stay, what to do, and who it suits.

Best Time to Visit Lake Como: Season by Season
Destination

Best Time to Visit Lake Como: Season by Season

The best time to visit Lake Como is mid-April to June or September - here's how every season really looks, from spring blooms to winter closures.

How to Get from Milan Malpensa Airport to Lake Como
Transport

How to Get from Milan Malpensa Airport to Lake Como

Train, direct bus or private transfer from Milan Malpensa to Como, Varenna and Bellagio - honest 2026 costs, the EES ticket trap and the return-trip math.

Bellagio, Lake Como: Stay the Night, or Time the Day Trip?
Destination

Bellagio, Lake Como: Stay the Night, or Time the Day Trip?

How to get to Bellagio, where to stay, what to do, and how to see Lake Como's prettiest town without the midday crowds - by ferry, not by car.

Varenna, Lake Como: What to Do, Where to Stay, Getting There
Destination

Varenna, Lake Como: What to Do, Where to Stay, Getting There

How to visit Varenna on Lake Como: the right train from Milan, working the ferries, where to stay near the dock, what to see, and the best time to go.

Milan to Lake Como: Train or Car? Pick the Town First
Transport

Milan to Lake Como: Train or Car? Pick the Town First

Take the train from Milan to Lake Como in an hour, then a ferry to Bellagio or Varenna. Routes, fares, the validation trap and how to skip the crowds.

Lake Como Ferry: Routes, Tickets and How to Skip the Lines
Transport

Lake Como Ferry: Routes, Tickets and How to Skip the Lines

Three kinds of boat, three ways to buy, each failing differently. Which one you need, the line that costs you a sailing, and the contactless overcharge.

Car Rental in Sicily: Tips From Driving the Whole Island
Transport

Car Rental in Sicily: Tips From Driving the Whole Island

Car rental in Sicily, Italy: the credit card and deposit the desk wants, the permit a US license needs, the cover worth buying, and how returns go wrong.

Best Time to Visit Sicily
Planning

Best Time to Visit Sicily

Sicily never gives you warm sea, everything open and room to move all at once. What each season takes back, and the two peaks hiding in the cheap months.

Cefalù: Is a Day Trip From Palermo Enough?
Destination

Cefalù: Is a Day Trip From Palermo Enough?

Things to do in Cefalù, Sicily, and how to fit them in: the cathedral's long lunch, La Rocca's last entry, the last train back, and when a night wins.

Rome to Sicily: The Train Is Not Always the Answer
Transport

Rome to Sicily: The Train Is Not Always the Answer

Six ways south, compared for the day you travel: the train that boards a ferry, the flight, the drive, and the night boats out of Rome's own port.

Messina Cruise Port
Destination

Messina Cruise Port

Messina's cruise terminal is mid-construction through 2027. Where ships actually dock, the free old-town loop, and whether Taormina or Etna fits your day.

Siracusa, Sicily: When It Earns Nights of Its Own
Destination

Siracusa, Sicily: When It Earns Nights of Its Own

Ortigia, Sicily: a full day if your trip is the east coast, two or three nights if the southeast is in the plan. One night is the wrong number either way.

Ragusa, Sicily: Which Half, and What Each Is For
Destination

Ragusa, Sicily: Which Half, and What Each Is For

Ragusa is two towns on one hillside: Ragusa Ibla below, Superiore above, 300-plus steps between. Which half to sleep in, how to cross, what each is for.

Marsala, Sicily: A Town in Two Halves
Destination

Marsala, Sicily: A Town in Two Halves

Things to do in Marsala, Sicily: the old town and cellars are a walk. The salt pans and Mozia sit north, and how you cross that gap depends on the season.

Taormina to Palermo: Which Way Around the Island
Transport

Taormina to Palermo: Which Way Around the Island

No direct train or bus links Taormina to Palermo. Change north at Messina or south through Catania, and know which end of town to leave from.

Noto, Sicily: How Long to Give It, and When to Go
Destination

Noto, Sicily: How Long to Give It, and When to Go

What to do in Noto, Sicily, and how long it really takes: half a day, and the back half is the one that counts. Plus arriving without a car.

Palermo: How Many Days, and What They Buy
Destination

Palermo: How Many Days, and What They Buy

The best things to do in Palermo, Sicily, and what two or three days actually buy you: the Norman core, the markets, the catacombs, the car question.

Sicily Itinerary: 7 or 10 Days, One Half or Both?
Planning

Sicily Itinerary: 7 or 10 Days, One Half or Both?

Sicily's two gateway airports sit at opposite ends, and the pair you book sets the route. How many days buy one half or both, and when a car pays off.

Marzamemi: How Long to Stay, and When to Go
Destination

Marzamemi: How Long to Stay, and When to Go

One perfect piazza and an old tonnara in southeast Sicily - genuinely worth an hour or two, but only if you time the visit right.

Catania: What Two Days There Actually Buy You
Destination

Catania: What Two Days There Actually Buy You

The best things to do in Catania, and what two days there actually buy you: the morning market, the eating, the free city, and the day trip worth it.

Best Beaches in Sicily: How to Reach Them, What They Cost
Destination

Best Beaches in Sicily: How to Reach Them, What They Cost

Which Sicilian beaches you can reach by train or bus, which need a car, and what a day on the sand actually costs before you put a towel down.

Catania to Palermo: Which Way Across? The Answer Changed
Transport

Catania to Palermo: Which Way Across? The Answer Changed

The Catania to Palermo train runs direct again in just under three hours. How it compares with the bus and the drive, and how to check your own date.

San Vito lo Capo: Where Sicily's Road Ends
Destination

San Vito lo Capo: Where Sicily's Road Ends

The beach at the far end of Sicily: what the sand actually costs, how to reach San Vito lo Capo without a car, and how late the water stays warm.

Mount Etna: How High You Can Stand on an Active Volcano
Destination

Mount Etna: How High You Can Stand on an Active Volcano

A different planet at the top: bare black slope, the coast far below. How high you get on your own, what each rung costs, and why the ceiling moves.

Taormina: What to See, and the Best Hours to See It
Destination

Taormina: What to See, and the Best Hours to See It

Taormina is two towns on the same street, and the hour decides which one you get. What to see, what the Etna day costs, and when the crowds thin.

Catania Airport to Taormina: The Clock Decides the Way
Transport

Catania Airport to Taormina: The Clock Decides the Way

Catania Airport to Taormina by bus, train, taxi or rental car: what each costs, when the last bus goes, and what to do when ash closes the airport.

Italy guides